As we travel to South Carolina for the holidays, it reminds me of two events - one was a little over two years ago, when we last visited South Carolina to observe a total solar eclipse and another was almost ten years ago - when we visited Dhanushkodi to see another eclipse, an annular one. As coincidence would have it - there is another annular eclipse happening in TamilNadu the day after Christmas. I would have loved to be there instead - but I cherish those memories.
I have always been fascinated with geography and astronomy forever. And eclipses are truly fascinating events in the sense that they can be predicted accurately by modern science and historically we could connect very important historical events to eclipses.
Among the eclipses of the two significant celestial bodies to Earth, Solar eclipses are very rare indeed. There are mainly two major classifications of solar eclipses - the annular eclipse and the total solar eclipse. And I can proudly say I have traveled to the path of totality of an annular eclipse and one total eclipse thus far in my life.
The Ring of Fire Eclipse:
My first one was an annular eclipse - or as its more commonly referred to as “The Ring of Fire” eclipse. It was the January of 2010 - and it was more exotic than usual - the path of maximum eclipse would touch India only at the narrow strip of land at Dhanushkodi. A storm ravaged ghost town on the island of Rameshwaram.
I planned the trip with friends, but ended up going with my parents. We drive from Chennai to Rameshwaram island on Pongal day - the day before eclipse - and I aptly named the trip “The Ring of Fire Expedition”. We did not manage to get any eclipse glasses - but my dad managed to get us some welder’s glass - which can be used to view eclipses. It also helped since my had earlier worked at Rameshwaram and was able to acquire accommodation at Rameshwaram - being a tourist town - and that day being a religious event as well (Total solar eclipses happen only on New moon days). By this time we had another family from Madurai join us as well.
Though my dad ensured that we had a place to stay - we could not get one of those four-wheel drive vehicles which could take us beyond a point on the island. Unlike now - there was no national highway that leads all the way to the end of the island. The presence of all national media on the island and religious events were contributing factors to us not being able to get a vehicle to drive us in.
We decided to drive as far as we could - or as long as there was paved roads - we reached Mukundarayachatram (M R Chatram) where the road ended at a Naval check point and the only way beyond was to board one of the many converted four wheel drive vans to take us to Arichalmunai - the place where land ends. The elders decided to stay back at M R Chatram as it would be a strenuous journey for them.
The drive in was adventurous, to say the least - we were hanging on to the back of the those vans or were sitting on top of those vans holding on to the ropes to stop ourselves from falling over - while the van was driving through sand and sea to get us to our destination. By the time we started the journey the eclipse had already started and we encountered totality while we were on the van.
I would say that we were unlucky - though we could make it into the path of maximum eclipse - there was cloud cover at critical moment and we could not see the eclipse itself. But we certainly felt our spines tingle as an eerie darkness came upon in the middle of the day. It was not complete darkness - but certainly was an out-worldly experience. It should be noted that at that time I do not think anyone was allowed to go in after it was dark - add to it the storm ravaged buildings in the erstwhile town of Dhanushkodi.
We had a great time at the “Land’s End” (Arichalmunai) and returned back on the same van - this time driving completely in less than a foot of water for a long time to get back to the elders and we continued our little trip by visiting Mandapam, Muyal Theevu (Special permission), Madurai and Kodaikanal before returning to Chennai. The highlight of this trip was the Solar eclipse and I can say that it spiked my interest in eclipses.
After the somewhat disappointing Jan 15 2010 eclipse - where we could not observe the totality due to cloud cover - I was looking out for my next opportunity. Solar eclipses do not happen at fixed intervals and when they happen it is visible from a very small area - and in some cases may happen over very sparsely or un-populated areas (oceans, Antarctica etc).
The Great American Eclipse:
My next opportunity came in August of 2017, and I started making my plans a year ahead. This time the eclipse was going to cut through the United States and I was living in the USA at that time. I was lucky indeed. Though I did not live near the path of totality - I had already decided not to let go of this opportunity.
The 21 Aug 2017 total solar eclipse, rightly dubbed the “Great American Eclipse” was also rare - in that it cut a path from the west-coast of the United States to its east coast - from Oregon to South Carolina. I lived on the east coast near Washington DC and again it attracted me to see the eclipse from an exotic location again - and what could be more exotic than Yellowstone National Park - the home of the largest dormant Caldera volcano - with its Geysers that spewed hot steam from below.
This was not to happen - as six months before the eclipse - accommodations around the Yellowstone park shot up to astronomical levels - and I started looking at backup locations. I ended up deciding to go to the point where the eclipse exits the United States - a small park on the shores of the Atlantic ocean in South Carolina.
My Wife and another friend joined us, as we planned to be on the road for the weekend before the eclipse, visiting Myrtle Beach, SC and Columbia, SC. The park that I had planned to be for the eclipse had made special arrangements and was just North of Columbia, SC.
It was disappointing the day before the eclipse to see the weather forecast on the day of the eclipse was “cloudy” and I started looking for alternatives. The alternate I chose was in the mountains, the campuses of Clemson University in Clemson, SC. Though Columbia and Clemson were in the same state, it was more than a 2 hour drive and to beat the traffic, we decided to start early in the day before sunrise and after quite an uneventful drive encountering no traffic until we reached the university - where we encountered a small line of cars to enter the university outdoor recreation area. There were a lot of people and it was warm - the eclipse was to start after 2 PM, and I set up shop under a tree with my laptop, GoPro and DSLR camera (with solar filter) and started an eager wait.
As the time approached, we could see the slow progression of the moon across the Sun and casting a shadow on us, and it slowly grew darker. The Sun’s power is such that you could not tell a difference until it is more than 75% covered. We were also keeping a watch on some clouds which had formed by then - and hoping that they don’t interfere - and thankfully - they kept a safe distance and we were able to see the progression of the eclipse almost unhindered.
Since we chose to be at a university - we were provided with solar viewing glasses though we already had enough with us. Also - we could see some interesting ways and methods to observe the eclipse. A pinhole camera - created with two shipping boxes and some black paint was letting everyone observe the sun safely and accurately.
At last - the moment for which we traveled so far and waited for so long arrived - and the moon took over the sun and we had total darkness. I was overjoyed and shouted out. We removed the solar glasses (you can see the sun during a total eclipse with your bare eyes - but should take care to put on the glasses before the maximum eclipse ends) to view the eclipse in all its glory.
We could observe the Solar flares, Bailey’s beads, we could hear the crickets start chirping, lights turning on at distant homes and an eerie silence that took over everyone when the totality started. The total eclipse lasted just 2 minutes and 40 seconds and we once again had light. I felt that there were too many things happening within that short period and I wanted it to last longer - but one can only hope so. There was not enough time to observe and take in what is happening all around you in those few seconds.
We also observed snake like shadows on the ground just as the eclipse ended - some thought they saw a snake to find only shadows - we later found that this phenomenon is as of yet unexplained and are called shadow bands.
I can finally say that I was overwhelmed by the second eclipse I saw and this left me wanting to see more - which I definitely will. My next opportunity comes in 2024 in the United States, or maybe in Chile in Dec 2020.
If there is an eclipse happening near you - be it a Solar or Lunar - be it a partial, total, annular or Hybrid - please do not keep within your houses - go out and experience it. These celestial events do not happen often and they should not be missed. Do not be bogged down by superstition, please make sure that your children get an opportunity to see these celestial events. Take proper care when you are viewing the eclipse and the experience might kindle the interest in science in you or your children.